Two Thumb Track

The start of the track is signposted at the Bush Stream carpark beyond Mesopotamia Station, and is mostly unformed but marked with poles from there. Access is via Rangitata Gorge Road. The huts en-route are classic 8-bunk musterers’ huts and add an important historic dimension to this tramp.

Bush Stream car park to Crooked Spur Hut - 9km / 4 hours

• Note: Please see the "Additional Information" for transport details - there is very little traffic past Peel Forest

If driving to the trailhead on Rangitata Gorge Road take care to follow the correct gravel track which forks to the right immediately after passing the Mesopotamia Station farm buildings and passes through the fence line over a cattle stop. The wider gravel track straight ahead is a privately maintained private road and is signposted No Access at the first fence. Please respect farm access restrictions. Te Araroa benefits from landowner's goodwill. 

Follow markers from the carpark up towards Bush Stream. The path across the stony matagouri flats is not easy to follow as the marker posts are not always visible over the scrub. The trail crosses a farm road and skirts a small canal. After passing the canal the track crosses a low ridge behind a row of poplars.  Walk to the left along this ridge a short distance and look out for a 4WD track heading up towards the gorge across the wide matagouri flats to the stream. This is much easier than trying to find your own path through the matagauri. At the stream travel is up, or adjacent to, the river bed, crossings as required. It is not necessary to zig-zag across the river bed to each orange marker pole.  Choose your own route based on the river braids as you find them. These crossings are straightforward in normal flows but can be tricky after rain or during spring when the stream is fed by snow melt. Take extreme care at these times. Crossings are recommended as early as possible in the mornings during the snow melt.

The Sawtooth Bluff can be particularly tricky.  Before reaching Sawtooth, approximately 5 km from the start, cross to the left (true right) bank as the stream at Sawtooth is narrow, steep and deep, even in moderate conditions.

The track later leaves the stream bed at a marked point on the left and climbs over a steep ridge to avoid a gorge section, and then descends back towards Bush Stream.

To ford Bush Stream a final time head up the true right bank to find the safest place to cross. Previous advice to cross via an island in mid-stream is now out of date due to changes in the gravel banks.  Aim to come out of the steam just above the orange triangle marker. Follow the marker back onto the Bush Stream Track and up to Crooked Spur hut. 

From the true left side a formed track climbs towards Crooked Spur Hut (5 bunks). This track was still used for mustering purposes up until 2009. The climb to the hut takes about 1hr.

Crooked Spur Hut is tired but provides adequate accommodation. It’s in a good location with views down Bush Stream to the Rangitata River.

Crooked Spur Hut to Stone Hut - 9.5km / 5 hours

From Crooked Spur Hut the track goes west around Crooked Spur and climbs steadily for 1.5hrs to a saddle at 1500m. From the saddle the track descends to cross Pack Horse and Sweeps Streams before returning to Bush Stream. The old stock bridge, which may appear on some maps, has been removed. Cross the river upstream from the narrow gorge to reach Stone Hut. Stone Hut (8 bunks) is in reasonable condition.  

DOC have removed the bridge over Bush Stream marked on Te Araroa map 122 at km 2,375.4, and on NZTopo50 map BX18. Local signage indicates the required stream crossing below the hut.

Stone Hut to Royal Hut - 6km / 2 hours

Beyond the hut Te Araroa follows Bush Stream to Royal Hut (8 bunks). Prince Charles and Princess Anne reputedly visited as children, hence the hut’s name.

Royal Hut to Camp Stream Hut - 14km / 6 hours

The first part of the day involves a climb over the Two Thumb Range via Stag Saddle (1925m), the highest point on Te Araroa.

From the hut cross Bush Stream and follow the poles upwards. The climb to the saddle is fairly steep in places but quite safe in reasonable weather. The contours ease towards the saddle, where cell phone coverage is available. At km 2,385.3 the NZ Topo may shows a trail branching slightly right to climb towards to the saddle.  A better route, sporadically marked with stone cairns, turns to the left to follow a small stream gully up to  and around a small rocky spur. The marker poles are widely spaced

For northbound walkers this preferred route is found by keeping to the right when descending from the saddle

From the saddle the poled route marked on NZ Topo maps follows Camp Stream down to the hut. This is the safest route in bad weather, but the track may be boggy in places.

On a fine day the Ridge Route is preferable as it offers a wide view over Lake Tekapo. Turn right near the Stag Saddle sign and cross higher ground to the tack traversing the bare scree slope visible above the saddle to the right. Descend the ridge line for 10 km past marked peak 1944 and the turn off to Rex Simpson Hut (private) to a 4WD track. While unmarked this route is generally sound underfoot and affords excellent views across Lake Tekapo to Mt Cook. This should only be attempted by people confident in navigating and should not be attempted in poor weather. Turn left onto the 4WD track, which fords Camp Stream on its way to Camp Stream Hut (6-bunks) 

Important update 23 January. The Te Araroa route marked in black on Map 122 and in the Trail App, and in red on FarOut, is incorrect between km 2,386 and km 2,388.  The correct route to the ridge track turns to the right at the Stag Saddle sign and rises higher to cross the wide the scree slope ascending the high ridge visible to the right. Once on the high ridge the track is easy to follow all the way to Camp Stream. Do not attempt to cross the broken rock slope currently shown between km 2,386 and km 2,388. The corrected route is now marked on the iOS versions of Trail App, and the Te Araroa Notes app. The pdf map and the Android Trail App will be corrected but this will take time. 

• Note: Camp Stream Hut is owned and managed by the Mackenzie Alpine Trust who ask for a $10 per person donation to overnight here - please carry some cash and use the honesty box outside the hut.

The alternative marked (and poor weather) route down from Stag Saddle is lightly poled and runs down into the tussock covered Camp Stream Valley. Lower down this valley the 2 routes converge at the 4WD track, turn left here to access Camp Stream Hut, which is on the true left side of the stream. Camp Stream Hut is compact but in reasonable condition.

There is no water supply at the hut so fill up when crossing Camp Stream

Note for Northbound walkers, Camp Steam Hut to Royal Hut

There are two possible routes from Camp Steam, just north of the hut, to Stag Saddle.  The DOC sign at the steam crossing indicates Stag Saddle via Te Araroa Trail.  This is the valley route, recommended for bad weather when the exposed ridge may be best avoided. The valley route is safer in these conditions but may be swampy.

Te Araroa maps and apps now follow the alternative ridge track to Stag Saddle.  To access this going northbound from the stream crossing walk up the 4WD track towards the Coal River Car Park, past two orange marker poles.  Turn right at the third pole, which may have an improvised arrow attached, and climb the tussock path to the start of the long ridge leading up to Stag Saddle. Check the Alert or apps for a recent route correction near the top end of the ridge.  Watch for the track split between Bunzenberg Peak and Stag Saddle at approximately km 2,386.5

Camp Stream Hut to Boundary Stream carpark - 18km / 5 hours

The track leaves Camp Stream Hut for the Ski Field Road. Trampers leave the hut and follow the track down the true left of Camp Stream, before crossing the Coal River just above the confluence and then continuing on the true left of the Coal River before the steep climb to the road. There is a car park well down the road for those wanting to exit here.

Meanwhile, Te Araroa continues on conservation land parallel with Lake Tekapo and along the base of the Two Thumb Range. The track crosses Washdyke Stream on its way to Boundary Stream where it descends above the true right bank to a car park at Lilybank Road.

• Note: once you cross Boundary Stream, you are surrounded by private land and camping is NOT welcomed - continue all the way to Lake Tekapo Village, or if you wish to camp make sure you do so before crossing Boundary Stream.

Follow the road shoulder 13km south towards SH8. 

• Note: wear a high-visibility vest and/or pack cover on this walk and don't wear earphones, as the road is narrow and can be very dusty (poor visibility) in summer.

The road walk ends at the Lake Tekapo Regional Park, which affords lakeside walking for the final 3km section into Lake Tekapo Village.